The last days of disco are alive and well in this high-textured revival. Forget everything you know about curly hair. Living Proof Celebrity Stylist Chris McMillan removes weight and resists hard lines with a unique combination of tools, transforming curls into a celebration of natural texture.
STEPS
Cleanse and condition based on client's hair type with a Living Proof shampoo & conditioner. Follow with Prime Style Extender on damp hair to prep style and use as a cutting lotion. Comb though. For additional slip, layer Perfect hair Day (PhD) Night Cap Overnight Perfector.
This is a dry cut. Blow-dry and then flat iron, so hair is pin straight. On dry hair, section from ear to ear. Working in the back below the occipital, create a small horizontal section based on the density of the hair.
Remove length using texturizing shears.
Drop the next section onto guide, and lift with a comb to create elevation. Point-cut with shears.
Continue to drop sections to the perimeter guide, removing length by rotating between shears and texturizing shears, cutting straight off the head to create a mixed texture.
Continue alternating between tools until the back section is complete. Clean up the perimeter line with a razor.
Using the perimeter guide in the back, connect the front sections, removing length until you reach the front hairline.
Create a 1-inch section from the part to the front of the ear, framing the face and allowing for natural fall to create fringe and frame.
Overdirect into forward graduation.
Pull to the opposite side, lift with your comb and remove length by point-cutting.
Comb back to natural fall to check for length.
Comb the rest of the hairline forward into previously-cut section, overdirect to the opposite side and remove length to guide using texturizing shears.
Blend the fringe area to the perimeter with a razor.
Repeat on the opposite side.
Using texturizing shears, create a center parting, and remove length by creating round layers, using the perimeter as a guide.
Styling Option 1 - To achieve texture, use Flex Shaping Hairspray. Lift and mist sections and lengths of hair, and tousle with your hands. Shape with your fingers. If more texture is desired, mist Instant Texture Mist from a distance and focus on the ends only. Tousle.
Styling Option 2 - Cocktail several pumps of Satin Hair Serum with Restore Instant Repair, and apply to dry, straight hair, until hair looks almost wet by rubbing and reapplying.
Styling Option 3 (for curly-haired clients) -
1. Cleanse and condition with Curl Conditioning Wash. Lightly blot hair once client is in your chair.
2. Apply a small dollop of Curl Leave-In Conditioner to your hands. Distribute evenly from midlengths to ends.3. Apply a dollop of Curl Defining Styling Cream from midlengths to ends.
4. Apply a dollop of Curl Enhancing Styling Mousse to roots. This will help create volume and body in the root area.
5. Using a pen or a ¼-inch curling iron rod that is NOT plugged in or turned on, begin to shape curls. Shape in ½- and ¼-inch sections.
6. Repeat until the entire head is shaped. Do not touch.
7. Diffuse hair until completely dry, but do not touch or disrupt curls at all during the processes.
8. Once hair is 100 percent dry, have client flip head over and gently pull and tug at the curls to get the soft, deconstructed look.
9. For areas that have weaker curl patterns and need enhancing, wrap a small section of hair around a ¼-inch curling iron at 450 degrees.
10. Repeat for all areas that need touching up. Pull and loosen these curls so they blend in with the other curls.
11. Use a dab of Satin Hair Serum to polish any areas that need frizz taming.
