Most of the women who sit in your chair looking for a change for fall/winter want to go darker...but not always. Instead of trading in her balayaged summer locks for a dark, chestnut brown, consider a warm brown base laced with subtle, face framing caramel undertones. Wella Professionals Creative Ambassador Sonya Dove did just this when she wanted to infuse movement and life into her brunette client looking for a change. Here's how she did it!
STEPS
Before
Section the hair into four quadrants.
Starting at the nape, take ½-inch horizontal sections and scoop a shallow U-shaped section of hair from the section. The bigger the size of your U-shaped section, the less the lightener is going to penetrate. Very fine sections of the model's hair were taken because of her density. Apply Formula A to the outside of the sections beginning at the midshaft, then using the tip of the brush to feather the lightener further up your section. This will create a smooth transition between her natural color and the desired tone. Continue this all the way up to the top of the back two sections.
Once the back has been completed, move to the front two sections. Taking a slightly diagonal back section apply Formula A to the midshaft first, then use the tip of the brush to feather the lightener toward the scalp. If your sections are too big, you can subdivide the sections for more control.
Once you have completed both of the front sections, process the hair for 50 minutes or until the hair reaches the desired level of lift. Then clean the hair with Wella Elements Shampoo. Since you're going to tone with INSTAMATIC, don't apply Wella Professionals Color Post Treatment or Conditioner to the hair.
Dry the hair, section into three parts and apply Formula B to the entire head.
Begin at the nape and work your way toward the top of the head, making sure to evenly saturate the hair to ensure proper coverage. Once you reach the top of the head, start working through the front sections leaving the hairline to the end. Because the hairline tends to be finer, it’s important to wait until the end to tone the hairline.
Be sure to pull the hair away from your client's face to keep your work clean. This will process for up to 20 minutes or until you achieve the desired tone. It’s important to stay with your client and check how your color is developing. After your color develops, be sure to thoroughly rinse the product from the hair. Apply Color Post Treatment and process for 5 minutes to help seal the cuticle before treating the hair with Wella Professionals Elements Conditioner.
Style as desired.
