Under-color and mahogany blonde highlights enhance this cut, which features almond-shaped, curved, diagonal back sections. It's from the new TONI&GUY Divert Collection, and it beautifully answers the question, "what can I do to make long brown hair look fresh and new?"
On Paper Keyword: toniguy
STEPS
Create a profile parting from the front hairline to the center nape. Isolate the fringe area with diagonal forward partings form the apex to mid-recession. Create a diagonal back parting from the fringe area to the top of the ear and clip away. Create an s-pattern horseshoe from below the crown top the low-recession and clip away.
Separate the under section with a central vertical parting. Create a diagonal back parting at the transition of the horseshoe, elevate to 90 degrees and point-cut hair short to long, increasing the length towards the central vertical parting.
Continue working in this manner, overdirecting sections to the stationary guide at the top, point-cutting and following the guide. Cross check and repeat on the opposite side.
Release the S-pattern horseshoe, create a central vertical section, and comb the hair up to 90 degrees, following the round of the head. Point-cut short to long, increasing the length towards the face.
Subdivide the guide. Create pivoting diagonal forward sections from below the crown, comb the hair in a T-part fashion, and overdirect to the central stationary guide, creating a short to long inversion.
In the fringe section, begin at the center back, comb the hair into natural fall and point-cut square.
For the perimeter, begin at the center back, comb the hair into natural fall, elevate to a one finger depth and point-cut round.
Dry and straighten the hair with a blow-dryer and round brush.
To release the weight, create vertical sections and utilize a deep, C-curve slicing method, working on internal sections from the midlengths out.
To detail the fringe, lift vertical section to 90 degrees out from the face and employ deep, parallel point-cutting to remove excess graduation.
Color Formulas
Formula A (Smokey Mahogany Brown): TIGI® copyright©olour™ gloss 4/85 + 8.5-volume developer
Formula B (Ash Mahogany Blonde): TIGI® copyright©olour™ true light + white 40-volume developer
Formula C (tone): TIGI® copyright©olour™ gloss 9/21 + 2 inches of TIGI® copyright©olour™ mix master /1 + /55 + 5-volume developerCreate a diagonal back parting from the mid-recession to the occipital on both sides. Secure the sections above the parting and apply Formula A to the remaining hair. Isolate with foil or meche.
Create a curved, diagonal back parting from just below the crown to the occipital, creating an almond shape as shown.
Subdivide the remaining hair outside the almond section into three sections on each side: front, side and back.
Beginning in the back, take 1/8-inch or 1/4-inch subsections (depending on hair density). Create textured/placement weaves and highlight the hair with Formula B. Secure foils with a single fold.
Repeat the technique in the side sections. Tip: irregular feathering of the color produces a softer, "lived-in" effect.
In the fringe area, take 1/8-inch subsections and highlight with a weave technique.
Divide the almond section in half for control. Begin in the back and work toward the center. Create 1/4-inch slices and apply Formula B to midlengths and ends. Feather the color aggressively at the regrowth area, using the natural color as the root shade to create depth. Isolate every 2 to 3 slices with foil or meche.
Apply Formula B to slices, working from front to center. Continue until all sections are complete. Process, rinse and dry the hair. Tone all strands with Formula C.
Who did it
cut: Zak Mascolo, Austin Finley, Joseph Marzioli
haircolor: Jared Smith, Laura Pease, Samatha Finley
photography: Alex Barron-Hough
styling: Caroline Mascolo
makeup: Tommy Gomez
website: toniguy.com.
On Paper Keyword: toniguyTONI&GUY 2014: Back to Business, Back to Education, Back to Design!
A personal invitation from Bruno Mascolo!
For more information, visit www.toniguy.edu/franchising.
Want to learn how to create these looks? Purchase the DIVERT Collection DVD and technical manual in the BTC Bookstore!
More How-Tos
Short, Rich Caramel Bob & Fringe
Red, Red Wine Color Formula
Asymmetrical Bob from TONI&GUYCreate a profile parting from the front hairline to the center nape. Isolate the fringe area with diagonal forward partings form the apex to mid-recession. Create a diagonal back parting from the fringe area to the top of the ear and clip away. Create an s-pattern horseshoe from below the crown top the low-recession and clip away.
- Separate the under section with a central vertical parting. Create a diagonal back parting at the transition of the horseshoe, elevate to 90 degrees and point-cut hair short to long, increasing the length towards the central vertical parting.
- Continue working in this manner, overdirecting sections to the stationary guide at the top, point-cutting and following the guide. Cross check and repeat on the opposite side.
- Release the S-pattern horseshoe, create a central vertical section, and comb the hair up to 90 degrees, following the round of the head. Point-cut short to long, increasing the length towards the face.
- Subdivide the guide. Create pivoting diagonal forward sections from below the crown, comb the hair in a T-part fashion, and overdirect to the central stationary guide, creating a short to long inversion.
In the fringe section, begin at the center back, comb the hair into natural fall and point-cut square.
For the perimeter, begin at the center back, comb the hair into natural fall, elevate to a one finger depth and point-cut round.
Dry and straighten the hair with a blow-dryer and round brush.
- To release the weight, create vertical sections and utilize a deep, C-curve slicing method, working on internal sections from the midlengths out.
- To detail the fringe, lift vertical section to 90 degrees out from the face and employ deep, parallel point-cutting to remove excess graduation.
Color Formulas
Formula A (Smokey Mahogany Brown): TIGI® copyright©olour™ gloss 4/85 + 8.5-volume developer
Formula B (Ash Mahogany Blonde): TIGI® copyright©olour™ true light + white 40-volume developer
Formula C (tone): TIGI® copyright©olour™ gloss 9/21 + 2 inches of TIGI® copyright©olour™ mix master /1 + /55 + 5-volume developerCreate a diagonal back parting from the mid-recession to the occipital on both sides. Secure the sections above the parting and apply Formula A to the remaining hair. Isolate with foil or meche.
Create a curved, diagonal back parting from just below the crown to the occipital, creating an almond shape as shown.
Subdivide the remaining hair outside the almond section into three sections on each side: front, side and back.
- Beginning in the back, take 1/8-inch or 1/4-inch subsections (depending on hair density). Create textured/placement weaves and highlight the hair with Formula B. Secure foils with a single fold.
Repeat the technique in the side sections. Tip: irregular feathering of the color produces a softer, "lived-in" effect.
- In the fringe area, take 1/8-inch subsections and highlight with a weave technique.
Divide the almond section in half for control. Begin in the back and work toward the center. Create 1/4-inch slices and apply Formula B to midlengths and ends. Feather the color aggressively at the regrowth area, using the natural color as the root shade to create depth. Isolate every 2 to 3 slices with foil or meche.
Apply Formula B to slices, working from front to center. Continue until all sections are complete. Process, rinse and dry the hair. Tone all strands with Formula C.
Who did it
cut: Zak Mascolo, Austin Finley, Joseph Marzioli
haircolor: Jared Smith, Laura Pease, Samatha Finley
photography: Alex Barron-Hough
styling: Caroline Mascolo
makeup: Tommy Gomez
website: toniguy.com.
On Paper Keyword: toniguyTONI&GUY 2014: Back to Business, Back to Education, Back to Design!
A personal invitation from Bruno Mascolo!
For more information, visit www.toniguy.edu/franchising.
Want to learn how to create these looks? Purchase the DIVERT Collection DVD and technical manual in the BTC Bookstore!
More How-Tos
Short, Rich Caramel Bob & Fringe
Red, Red Wine Color Formula
Asymmetrical Bob from TONI&GUY
