STEPS
Kamryn is a natural Level 7 blonde and she wanted something drastic for her color. Colorist DeAnnalyn Teal darkened her base with Paul Mitchell The Color 2oz. 5CB + 2oz. 20 volume developer to give added richness and depth. Process for 35 minutes at room temperature then rinse and shampoo.
Mix 2 bowls of bleach for the highlights—one with 5 volume (1 scoop Paul Mitchell Dual Process Bleach + 3oz. 5 volume crème developer) and one with 20 volume (1 scoop Paul Mitchell Dual Process Bleach + 3oz. 20 volume crème developer). The areas where the 5 volume was applied were lifted to a Level 8 with warmth. The areas where the 20 volume was applied were lifted to a Level 9.
Using foils, apply the bleach onto alternating back to back to back sections so they look more like slices. The placement should come more from the back of the crown toward the face, rather than on the top of the head. Process for 35 minutes at room temperature, rinse and shampoo.
To start the cut, section the wet hair into four large triangle sections, creating a large X at the back of the head. Four different haircutting techniques to these sections.
Taking radial partings within the back section (triangle at the nape), start at the center or the top of the triangle at the base of the spine. Holding your hand vertically, hold the hair at a 45-degree angle to the head and start the cut. Starting at the hairline, walk the 45-degree angle up to a 90-degree angle at the top of the triangle, rounding the layer as you move.
Working to the left, pick up another radial parting and cut in the same manner, overdirecting the new section to the first section (guide). Continue all the way through that section to the left.
Working to the right, take another radial parting and cut in the same manner, overdirecting the new section to the first section (guide). Continue all the way through that section working to the right.
Once the entire nape section is done, go back through and point cut the ends to detail the edge. Point cutting will give a softer, more lived-in perimeter.
Clean up the edge by razor cutting horizontally, making sure the inverted A-line quality is absolute.
Next, drop the right side panel and switch to vertical partings, applying square graduation. Overdirect all sections of hair following the shape of the head straight back to the previously cut section (guide).
Move forward one section at a time, overdirecting the hair into a square graduation while maintaining the length of the hair in front.
Horizontal cut side panels with shears in a solid form to remove length. The left side panel should be cut in the same manner.
To make sure all the sections are working together, overdirect the top section all to the right, then all to the left, removing any hair along the perimeter that hung below the existing line.
To style, shampoo and condition with a straightening formula, add a thickening cream cocktailed with 4-5 squirts of shine spray and apply all over the hair. Section the hair into the same four sections you created for the cut, then blow dry each section, starting at the nape and flat wrapping the hair to the shape of the head. Once dry, dust an aerosol spray onto your brush and work in with a blow dryer.
For a more “undone” look, work a matte shaping cream all over the hair and use a blow dryer to apply hairspray, working upwards. Use more shaping cream to piece through the ends.
