STEPS
Karla was a natural level 4 chocolate brown and wanted a pop of color to break up the solid base. Using foils and 1 scoop of Paul Mitchell Dual Process Bleach and 3 oz. 5 volume crème developer, DeAnnalyn pre-lightened random triangle shaped slices all over to a level 6. The bleach was processed at room temperature for 20 minutes, then rinsed and shampooed. A deeper red (2 oz Paul Mitchell The Color 5R and 2 oz 10 volume developer) is applied over the top and processed for 35 minutes at room temperature, then rinsed and shampooed.
For the cut, Ryan created an increased layered look using rounded layers on the inside. First he pattered with a wide Mohawk section taking the outside corner of each eyebrow all the way to the back of the nape, narrowing toward the back (following the head shape), more like a jock hawk. He took a smaller ½ inch Mohawk section from the inside corner of the eyebrows all the way to the back of the head.
This thinner section is what will be cut first. He started on the top, dead center at the back of the head and began cutting rounded layers following the head shape.
He worked forward, rounding forward toward the face, then rounded back towards the nape to the shape of the head.
Continue rounding layers.
For the sections on either side of the larger Mohawk, he stood on the opposite side of the model than the section of hair, and over directed towards his body while he cut.
Once the interior was cut, the sections were dropped and the perimeter or foundation was cut to taste with more of a blunt line.
Very heavy, blunt bangs or fringe were added.
To style, Ryan prepped the hair with Alterna Ten shampoo and conditioner for a very luxurious and polished foundation. Next he used thickening cream and mixed with mousse and applied the products all over the length by hand. The bangs were applied with polishing serum and blow-dried with a Denman brush. Using a small amount of working spray on an extra large brush, the length was round brushed, pulling forward for volume, then rounding at the ends for a kick outward.
Repeat styling steps in Final Look 1.
For an undone up style, DeAnnalyn left side sections out, then applied the remaining length with three ponytails along a Mohawk line. Each one was bound into an elastic but the ends were not pulled all the way through. The side sections were back-brushed with The Teals Finishing Brush (available at www.coolestsalon.com) then pulled back and tied into a knot in back between the ponytails and secured into one of the elastics. Working spray was applied to finish.
