For clients looking for a defined spiral to last longer than a week, Finger Twirls can be created by using MIZANI® TRUE TEXTURES™ Moisture Stretch™. This professional variation of Sassy Twists is done with one spin of the curl, as opposed to using a strand-over-strand technique. It is a faster way to create a defined spiral on Curl Types III-V on the MIZANI® Natural Curl Key™, and it controls volume and expansion. Hair has a soft, defined curl that forms into coils and is a nice, classic look for textured hair.
STEPS
This model is a Curl Type V (Very Curly) on the MIZANI® Natural Curl Key™. Her hair has a soft, defined curl that forms into coils.
Begin with wet hair. To prep it, distribute a small amount of TRUE TEXTURES™ Perfect Curl through the hair evenly and comb through in sections, using a medium comb. Then take a ½-inch horizontal section at the right side of the nape and subdivide it vertically. The vertical subsections should be larger than the subsections for Sassy Twists. Each one will be spun around your forefinger to create finger-twirled coils. (Here, you see the size of a few, already completed finger-spun coils.)
Beginning on the far right and working across the back, stretch out each subsection, and then twirl it around your forefinger in a clockwise direction, as shown. Spin it around your finger from roots to ends, then release it and move onto the next subsection. When one horizontal row has been completed, move up the back of the head, repeating the procedure. As you work up, include the side sections.
When you reach the crown, hold the hair up and divide the section to separate the back from the front fringe. If necessary, re-mist the hair with water to maintain curl consistency. To prevent over-saturation of product, do not reapply TRUE TEXTURES™ Perfect Curl.
Complete the back portion of the crown by creating one row of finger twirls. The front portion, shown here, forms a triangular shape that creates the bangs or fringe. Direct these finger twirls toward the side.
If the fringe is too heavy, create smaller spirals to break up bulk. Take care not to over-manipulate the damp hair. When all the finger twirls are completed, place the client under a cool-to-warm dryer until the hair is completely dry—here, about 15 minutes.
Once the hair is dry, twirl each coil in a counterclockwise direction to break it up. Then divide it into four sections and re-spin it in the original clockwise direction. Repeat this procedure on each coil throughout the head, following your original pattern, until all the finger twirls have been separated and re-spun.
Finger twirls create a classic, more conservative business style for natural hair.
