This masculine cut can be styled two ways, meaning your male clients will appreciate its versatility. Get the steps from Olivia Garden Brand Ambassador Ricardo Santiago! Imagery and technical steps provided by Joico. And don't miss Ricardo onstage at COLOR, Cut & Style, Aug. 20-22 in Austin, Texas! Get tickets here!
STEPS
Before
Section the hair from ear to ear as shown.
On the top of the head, take three vertical sections, working lower on the temple area as shown. These sections will vary depending on head shape, hair density, texture and hairline. Use the Olivia Garden Double Clip Petite to hold sections firmly in place.
Scissor-over-comb, maintaining a square shape, for all of section 1. Ricardo uses the Olivia Garden Dragon shears combined with CarboSilk Cutting Comb (CS-C2).
Release the hair in section 2 and take horizontal partings, starting at the back.
Hold your fingers at a diagonal line, building up length toward section 3 as shown. Determine the desired length and cut using an ultra-sharp shear such as the Cara by Olivia Garden.
Each parting is to be overdirected to the previous parting to build length and weight toward the front.
Note: The last few partings have to be overdirected more, depending on the temple area.
Disconnect section 2 so it overhangs section 1.
Release the hair in section 3.
Take vertical partings, starting from the back of section 3 and working toward the front hairline. Choosing the desired length, cut a shape running shorter from the crown to build up length and weight toward the front hairline. Each parting is cut using the previous as a guide. Section 3 should be longer and disconnected from section 2.
Once finished with haircut, use shorter shears to clean up the hairline such as the PrecisionCut.
Blow-dry the hair with a styling brush such as the HeatPro Thermal Styler 7-Row. Starting at the cheekbone, cut a line working backward, lifting higher to create softness behind the ear.
Using a round thermal brush like the NanoThermic Thermal (the length of the hair determines the brush diameter, but choose a relatively small size), lift the hair from the root area and bend toward the back of the head, using the air from your blow dryer to create a square crease and wave for a masculine shape.
Put a side parting in after the hair is dry and set.
Using the wrapping technique (constantly moving the brush left and right as you dry the hair), blow-dry the top section of the haircut forward and off to the desired side, covering as much or as little of the eye as the client likes.
Use a compact styling brush such as Olivia Garden's iStyle to brush the hair back from the hairline and push the hair forward, creating a fold in the hair. Use a flat iron to lightly hold onto the fold, creating a soft wave.
