Healthy, low-maintenance blonding WITHOUT bleach? Yes, it’s possible! Learn how Joico Celebrity Colorist Denis de Souza achieves up to 5 levels of lift on natural hair without lightener to achieve a creamy, sophisticated blonde with just one formula, then watch how he applies the shadow root for a lived-in, natural-looking blonde.
STEPS
Before
Begin with the hair parted down the center to the crown.
Part hair into three sections. Two in the front of the middle ear and one behind
Start by taking a diagonal parting from nape to ear in the right corner. Take a weave and apply Formula A. Feather the formula about 1 inch away from the scalp. This will make the highlight appear more natural and lived-in, creating a seamless blend of color.
Repeat the process on the left side using Formula A.
Now take a horizontal weave parting in the bottom nape that connects the two. Apply Formula A from mids and ends and blur into the scalp area. This “curvature” foiling custom-fits the color to the client’s head shape, hairline and hair type.
Repeat this same curvature bricklay pattern working up the head. Keep working in weave partings and feathering the formula in the scalp area 1 inch away from the root.
Next, move to the front right side. Working off a diagonal forward weave parting, apply Formula A in the same manner.
Continue working up the front side in a slight bricklay pattern in the wider areas of the head. Remember to use weave partings and feather the formula towards the top near the scalp. The foils will start on a strong diagonal and slowly get more horizontal as you work up the head.
Before you finish the front section, take out a 2-inch fringe section and clip away. Continue to add more highlights using Formula A till you get to the center top of the head. Repeat the same process on the other side. Clip the fringe area out of the way to the other side.
Now move to the fringe section. Take a fine weave horizontal parting and apply Formula A. Feather this section about 1½ to 2 inches away from the scalp to create a lived-in, natural-looking highlight.
Continue taking weave partings and applying Formula A until the section is complete.
Once all hair has been foiled, process at room temperature for 60 minutes. Rinse the hair with Joico Blonde Life Brightening Shampoo. Do not condition the hair. Squeeze the hair with a towel, but do not shake it as this could rough up the cuticle. Using a wide-toothed comb, comb the hair and move onto the shadow root application.
Starting in the back crown, apply Formula B with a bowl and brush from root to about 2 inches down.
NOTE: Because LumiShine Demi Liquid has an optimal viscosity, you may use a bowl and brush or bottle applicator to apply. Both will work beautifully.
Continue to apply Formula B around the head, working off horizontal partings. Paint the formula from root to 2 inches down. Process for 30 minutes then shampoo and condition with Joico Blonde Life Brightening System. For an added boost of shine, treat the hair to Joico K-PAK® Color Therapy™ Luster Lock Treatment or Spray.
Finished look.
