How do you keep your high lift blondes looking first-day fresh? With regular, careful and conscientious bleach and tone retouches. Here’s an in-depth review of this important, fundamental technique from the color pros at Sassoon. Get the Sassoon ABC Colour DVD/Book!
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Products Used
STEPS
Formula A (lighten)
Powder lightener + 10-volume developer
Formula B (toner)
40ml Level 10 neutral pastel blonde + 15ml Level 9 light violet blonde + 10-volume developer.
Create vertical sections from the crown to the top of the ears. Extend a vertical section from the crown to the nape. Apply Formula 1 to the hairline behind the ears on both sides, making sure the product does not overlap onto the previously bleached hair. Using delicate brush strokes, apply the product to the hairline area behind the ears, then repeat on the opposite side.
Take very fine, horizontal sections throughout the nape, combing the hair down and applying the product to the underneath of the sections only. Turn the brush with each stroke to ensure even distribution of the product. Continue working in parallel sections up to the crown area.
Divide the hair along the parting and apply the product, being careful not to overlap. Repeat this procedure through the second side. Work through the top section from the crown area to the front hairline. Take vertical sections through both sides and apply product by combing the hair away from the face. Use fine brush strokes around the hairline. Process to desired lift and remove.
Apply Formula 2, using the same sectioning as before. Apply to the roots in a vertical section above both ears and a vertical line through the center back. Continue with horizontal sections up to the top of both sides of the back. Work quickly, as the product will develop over a relatively short time.
Apply to the parting and then work from the crown to the front hairline. Since this hair will be porous, take fine sections and apply to the root area only. Work with vertical sections through the side areas, leaving out the front hairline. The hair is finer in this area and the result will be darker if the product is left on too long. After the desired result is achieved, start at the nape and apply the product to the hairline area. Then apply the mid-lengths and the ends of the top sections.
Incorporate the front hairline and process according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Once processing time is complete, use the back of the comb to remove a small amount of product from the last section to be colored. This will reveal whether an even blend has been achieved between the roots and mid-lengths.
