Babylights and foilayage are some of the most-requested highlighting techniques in the salon, and that’s why Joico celebrity colorist Denis de Souza (@denisdesouza) is breaking down how you can combine both to create rays of dimension and face-framing light. Follow these steps, watch the video how-to and learn exactly how Denis achieves a subtle and sun-kissed golden blonde. Then try these summer-approved blonding techniques behind the chair!
STEPS
Before
Start by creating a center part, then section the hair from the top of the crown to the top of the ears on both sides.
Starting in the back and directly above the ears, create a horseshoe-shaped subsection across the occipital bone. Then take a center-back parting from the horseshoe through the nape.
Starting at the bottom section, take a horizontal weave and apply Formula A, leaving behind a fine veil of natural hair at the hairline for a natural-looking, softer effect. Then apply Formula A starting 1 inch from the scalp through the ends.
Leaving out a fine veil of natural hair, take another weave and apply Formula A.
Continue this pattern up the back of the head until you reach the horseshoe section, then move to the opposite side and repeat.
At the horseshoe section, start applying Formula A in a bricklay pattern.
Continue taking fine weaves and applying Formula A until you reach just beneath the crown.
Then, switch to a foilayage technique on the ends to add dimension and brightness. Working section by section, take the ends left out of foils in smaller subsections. Lightly backcomb the hair, apply Formula B from mids to ends by feathering the lightener to create a gradual shift of brightness.
Pro Tip: “For better control, don’t fight gravity,” Denis recommends. “Clip the hair left out and work from the bottom toward the top.”
Completed foilayage.
Then, move to the top section of the horseshoe. Continue taking fine weaves and applying Formula A from scalp to ends in a bricklay pattern.
Continue this pattern until the entire back crown section is complete.
After the horseshoe section is complete, foilayage the ends using the same technique in Step 9.
Pro Tip: Determine foilayage sections by identifying where you want to see the most brightness.
Then, move to the front section. Leaving a fine veil of natural hair at the hairline, take a fine weave and apply Formula A from scalp to ends.
Continue this pattern applying Formula A and working up toward the parietal ridge.
Repeat on the opposite side.
Then, foilayage the ends by applying Formula B. Continue teasing the sections of hair left out of the foils, and feathering the lightener from mids to ends.
Repeat on the opposite side.
Then, working in the center-top section, take a horizontal weave and apply Formula A from scalp to ends.
Leaving a fine veil of hair between each section, continue taking fine weaves and applying Formula A from scalp to ends throughout the entire top section.
Using the foilayage technique, add dimension and brightness to the ends left out between foils.
Process for 30 to 35 minutes, rinse thoroughly and shampoo with Joico Blonde Life Brightening Shampoo. At the bowl, apply Formula C all over using an applicator bottle and process for 10 to 15 minutes, then rinse. Shampoo and condition with Joico Blonde Life Brightening Shampoo and Conditioner.
Pro Tip: Denis always ends color appointments with K-PAK Color Therapy Luster Lock Instant Shine & Repair Treatment for 5 minutes, then rinsing to lock in healthy haircolor.
Spray Joico K-PAK Color Therapy Luster Lock Multi-Perfector all over for gloss and color protection, blow-dry and style as desired.
