The shadow root is here to stay—clients love its low-maintenance look—so check out how @phildoeshair creates this on-trend ashy blonde/shadow root combo. He uses three shades of Joico LumiShine Silver Blue demi-permanent liquid color to give the iciest blonde possible.
STEPS
Before
Starting on the left side (at the parietal ridge), take horizontal weaves and apply Formula A. Place the lightener where it’s needed and avoid pieces that have already been lightened.
Take a back-to-back weave and apply Formula A. Weave out the blonde pieces and highlight the darker pieces. Continue taking fine, 1/8-inch sections and weave using Formula A. Once the head shape widens, take staggered bricklay foils and apply Formula A.
At the natural parting, start to take slices in back-to-back, staggered bricklay foils. Remember to apply Formula A where you need it and not overlap the already-blonde pieces.
Continue to take slices and weaves, leaving very little hair in between. Do this until you reach the middle of the head.
Repeat on the opposite side.
In the longest part of the fringe, take back-to-back partings in a staggered foiling method.
Place a few (three to five) vertical slices in the back right (at the point of disconnection above the occipital).
Process until the hair reaches the palest yellow. Rinse with Joico K-PAK Color Therapy Shampoo and Conditioner, then dry the hair.
Section around the parietal ridge, down the middle, and across the crown.
Starting in the nape, use Formula B to apply a shadow root approximately 1 to 2 inches from the scalp using a “teardrop” application (1 inch in the front, 2 inches in the back).
Pro Tip: For a seamless blend, apply color horizontally in 1/8-inch sections and comb with a wide-tooth comb for even saturation.
Apply the shadow root until you reach the crown area where the highlights begin.
Once you reach to the top of this section, melt Formula B into Formula D. Do this for the front and sides too. Place on a foil, then use a dry brush to melt and comb through to blend.
Pro Tip: To avoid creating spots or lines in the back area, do not start melting the two formulas until the hair is longer than the nape.
When working on the sides, take vertical sections. Apply Formula B and melt into Formula D. Using your hands, massage the point where the two colors meet to melt the formulas together. Continue this technique until you reach the front.
When working into the front, the hair will become shorter and shorter. As this happens, your applications will have less of Formula B (the Level 6) and more of Formula D (the Level 10). Repeat on the opposite side.
Pro Tip: Place a foil on top to protect the section.
Move to the top section of the head. Apply Formula B to the entire crown section as a shadow root, approximately 1 inch out from the scalp.
Take horizontal ¼-inch sections. Comb the section to tease the root area. Apply more of the shadow root with Formula B.
Weave out a horizontal subsection.
Apply Formula C to the bottom of the section. This will melt with the shadow root.
On the top of the section, apply Formula D to the ends. Repeat this technique in the crown section two more times.
Continue working this technique into each side of the top. Do the right side first, then the left.
Adjust your melting technique to the length of the hair. Repeat on the opposite side.
This is the pattern: Formula B, Formula C, Formula D / Formula B, Formula D
Process for 20 minutes at room temperature. Rinse well, then shampoo and condition with K-PAK Color Therapy.
Finished look
Finished look
