How To Build Dimension & Pockets of Depth Between Foils
Have you ever finished a long foiling service only to find the finished result is lacking that brightness you were going for? The culprit: Over-foiling. Instead of stacking the foils—focus on where you can strategically place pockets of depth to build contrast and that POP. Start with these key tips and placement diagrams!
1. Try this trick to create pops of blonde in the crown:
Have you seen this genius “build a house” foil method from NJ-based educator and BTC Team Member Grayson Troy (@graysontroy)? Essentially, “Build a house on your foils to create depth at the parietal ridge. When curled, your depth will push your blonde and help make it pop,” says Grayson.
Here’s how: In the fringe section, create a triangle (think: the top of a house) with lightener to create depth, placing it in between two babylight sections. “The idea behind [creating] ‘the top of a house’ is that you will have blonde closer to the money piece with depth pushing from the corners,” Grayson explains.
Pro Tip: According to Grayson, the key to this technique is overdirection—this will ensure depth. For the softest blend, try teasing your section before painting.
Photo Credit: Instagram via @graysontroy
Photo Credit: Instagram via @graysontroy
Check out the gorgeous end result:
Photo Credit: Instagram via @graysontroy
BONUS: Get Grayson’s formula below!
Formula A (lightener): Alfaparf BB Bleach 7 + 20-volume developer (1:2)
Pro Tip: Grayson says, “the mixing ratio of 1:2 will go a long way with maintaining the health of the hair.” For a faster, more aggressive lift, Grayson uses a 1:1.5 or 1:1 mixing ratio.
Flash tone in five quick minutes—click here!
2. Do this in between foils to create depth…
Massachusetts-based educator and BTC Team Member Sarah Cabral (@sarahzstylz) swears by this foil placement to create a lived-in look. Get the steps below!
Step 1: Start by foiling the hairline using a ponylight technique.
Step 2: Leave out triangles of depth in between foils.
Step 3: Continue foiling upwards towards the crown.
Step 4: That’s it! Check out the gorgeous end result below—plus, click the beaker to get Sarah’s formula:
Photo Credit: Instagram via @sarahzstylz
Click play to watch a how-to of Sarah’s technique:
Click here to get long-lasting vibrancy and shine.
BONUS: Screenshot Sarah’s headsheet to reference later!
Photo Credit: Instagram via @sarahzstylz
3. This is the key to bright ribbons that pop!
Full saturation: that’s right! According to BTC Team Member Steph Brown (@vividsandbalayage), you need to ensure full saturation for bright pops of blonde. Be sure to tease from the ends upward only one to two times—this will help you avoid a messy tease.
Pro Tip: If your client is trying to get in and out of the salon ASAP, try using Alfaparf Color Wear Gloss to flash tone in five quick minutes.
BONUS: Click the beaker to get Steph’s toning formula!
Photo Credit: Instagram via @vividsandbalayage
4. Less is more—here’s why:
You don’t need to paint every section to create bright blonde pops; in fact, you must leave out hair to maintain depth. Steph alternates between a weave and a slice to create a bright blonde that leaves dimension at the root.
Pro Tip: Steph says babylights are KEY for creating depth around the hairline.
Photo Credit: Instagram via @vividsandbalayage
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