Give the classic taper fade and square-shaped men's cut a cool grunge update with this flat top-inspired look from American Crew’s all-new Iconic Collection. Global Artistic Director Paul Wilson (@paulwilsoncrew) is breaking down razor-cutting techniques for achieving aggressive texture, a cropped fringe and volume at the crown below. Get the steps and pomade you need to achieve this tousled texture!
STEPS
Before
Start by taking a high horseshoe parting. This will separate the top half from the bottom, making it easy to stay on track.
Create a low fade using a #1 blade and clipper-over-comb technique with no guard. Use your comb as your guide as you work around the head to establish the shape.
Then, move to the the transition area which is the widest part of the head. You will find your guide underneath as the hair comes straight out here. Take horizontal sections and place the razor at the guide to remove the hair, using a slight sawtooth motion to create texture.
Continue this technique in the transition area, working all the way around the head.
Move to the top section. Take a vertical section starting at the center through the apex. Elevate the hair using a comb, place the razor at the desired length in the front and remove the hair moving toward the back using a sawtooth motion. Repeat this technique until you reach the crown.
Comb through the front section. Overdirect the sides of this area into the middle and razor-cut from underneath. This will achieve a cropped front in the center with longer lengths on both sides.
Customize the cut to the client's specific needs. Utilize support-cutting methods to push the volume and square shape into the crown where needed. Take diagonal sections and slide the razor through the ends at less than a 45-degree angle to create space without removing length.
Go back over the fade using a 000 blade with no guard, achieving a cleaner and tighter fade.
As you work around the ear, pull it forward using your finger to tighten up the skin for better access. Only use the last few teeth on the clipper to protect the graduation.
Apply American Crew Cream Pomade to your palms and emulsify. Move the product into the hair with your hands, then work it through the shape.
Pro Tip: Show your clients how to apply the product and have them hold it in their hands while you style their hair. This will make them feel more comfortable using it at home and will increase retail sales.
Men's texture goals!
Finished Look
