What’s our favorite haircutting trend of the moment? Saying YES to natural texture—like this classic men’s fade with heavy movement throughout the top! We’re all about showing you new ways to keep the guys in your chair on-trend and looking cool, so we’re breaking down the steps and products you need from top stylist, salon owner and founder of #BeAwesomeToSomebody Mark Bustos (@markbustos).
Plus, snag some of Mark's best barbering tips for dealing with cowlicks, moving around the ear and improving the client experience. Just keep scrollin’!
STEPS
Before
Establish reference points to create a visual guide for the fade, then clip the top section out of the way. For heavier weight around the hairline and occipital, Mark places the first point in line with the eyebrow (this will accentuate the brow bone), then continue dipping over the ear and connecting to the occipital.
Using cordless clippers with a half guard (the lever on the clipper is open all the way for a half size), start blending out the zero line and creating the shape. Mark thinks of clippers as an eraser. Don’t erase too much because once the hair is gone, it’s gone. Create the fade by slowly erasing the hair away in small sections.
Pro Tip: When you’re dealing with a client whose ear doesn’t fold easily, use your finger as an anchor—both holding the ear down and guiding your clippers to work closely against the head.
After the fade is complete, release the top and comb through and separate into two sections, dividing right above the ear. Starting from that middle point moving toward the hairline, work in 1/2-inch sections on a diagonal forward. Hold each section at a graduated 45 degree angle and cut palm to palm using narrow shears.
Continue working forward in slightly forward diagonal sections and overdirecting each section into the previous section to create a weight line that gets longer toward the front.
Starting back at middle point above the ear, work back into the crown using the same cutting technique. Here’s a cowlick cheat: Use a comb to follow the natural parting and cut a square shape to maintain length and prevent the hair from sticking up.
Continue working back in diagonal sections toward the occipital.
To remove weight throughout the top, start at the hairline and take a horizontal section. Hold the section straight up with tension and point-cut.
Pro Tip: Have the client lean forward slightly to prevent the hair from falling into their face. This will make their overall experience more enjoyable.
Continue working in horizontal sections, holding with tension and slice through the ends only slightly opening the shears.
Apply American Crew® Light Hold Texture Lotion to your hands, emulsify and work through the top section. Then use a diffuser and gently scrunch the hair to enhance natural texture. Continue working through the top with American Crew® Fiber for a matte finish.
For extra volume and thickness, tap American Crew® Boost Powder over the hair so it falls into the root for maximum lift and separation.
Finished Look
Finished Look
Finished Look
