Barbering

The Boxer From American Crew

October 28, 2015·1 min read

Crewfinal_orig
Men like to keep things simple, and that’s true of their hair. And this cut, called The Boxer, from American Crew Artistic Director Paul Wilson is his kind of cut. “This classic shape is a bit of a departure from the tight fades, exaggerated interior length and groomed finishes that we have seen over the last few years,” notes Paul. “The distinctly masculine shape utilizes razoring and point-cutting to create a textural and looser, less groomed result.” To finish of this convertible cut, Paul used American Crew Liquid Wax to create texture and flexible movement throughout the cut.   Win A FREE Full Size (more…)
  1. 1Step 1 of 18
    54032ac1a_orig
  2. 2Step 2 of 18
    54032ac1a_orig

    Start by separating the top from the bottom with a high horseshoe parting resting at the center of the recession. 

  3. 3Step 3 of 18
    54034ac2_orig

    Begin with a basic vertical section. Enter the razor so the depth of cutting remains shallow to the ends of the hair. Target down using a sawtooth cutting angle. As a textured surface quality is desired, the structure of the haircut must remain solid.

  4. 4Step 4 of 18
    54037ac3b_orig

    Prepare for the transition by creating a t-parting at the center of the top of the head. Use a sawtooth cutting angle and shallow depth to show heavy separation in the surface. Cut with a target that rotates away from the crown, point-cutting from the outside-in to control the ends of the hair. Use rotating sections from vertical (behind the ear), to diagonal (at the recession), to front and back (on top). Follow the initial guide at the beginning transition section until the center back is reached, and onward to behind the ear on the opposite side. Continue to follow the cutting considerations while rotating vertically around the crown. Use overdirection at the recession to offer a slight adjustment in weight.

  5. 5Step 5 of 18
    54038ac3c_orig

    The top was addressed in the transition application.

  6. 6Step 6 of 18
    54039ac5_orig

    Detail the hairline with a point-cut-over-comb. Use a shallow depth and sawtooth angle all the way around the perimeter. The shear will offer a more structured finish to the ends than the razor. Alternate targets to encourage the hair to lie in natural fall. TIP: Reduce wave with an opposing target.

  7. 7Step 7 of 18
    54040ac6_orig

    For a medium hold and matte finish, use a moderate dosage of American Crew Liquid Wax to bring the hair to a moderate saturation.

  8. 8Step 8 of 18
    54041AC7_orig

    Dry and style with the hands and use your fingers to elevate away from the scalp and separate the front.

  9. 9Step 9 of 18
    54035ac3_orig

    Work with fingers until surface texture is rough with a high amount of separation. Use a blow dryer to help further refine the hair if needed.

  10. 10Step 10 of 18
    54042ac10b_orig

    At the front, razor-cut using an acute/simple or sawtooth angle to increase the separation and decrease the length. Achieve aggressive, natural-looking separation by removing length around the entire hairline.

  11. 11Step 11 of 18
    54043ac9_orig

    Use the razor and cut to flatten the crown with isolated cutting with targets moving away from the crown. Add sawtooth cutting for isolated areas of separation.

  12. 12Step 12 of 18
    54044ac13b_orig

    Apply American Crew Liquid Wax on completely dry hair to bring the shape closer to the head and expose the isolated cutting applications. 

  13. 13Step 13 of 18
    54045ac12b_orig

    Using fingers to elevate hair away from the scalp and separate the front.

  14. 14Step 14 of 18
    54040ac6_orig

    Assess the desired result and add final touches to achieve a balanced silhouette that is tight at the hairline and loose on top. 

  15. 15Step 15 of 18
    54137Crew final_orig
  16. 16Step 16 of 18
    54138Crew side shot_orig
  17. 17Step 17 of 18
    54139crew back_orig
  18. 18Step 18 of 18
    Watch the video ↗