Bobs & Lobs

Short, Rich Caramel Bob and Fringe From TONIandGUY

March 13, 2014·1 min read

40427colorfinal_orig
A sultry, rich caramel. An edgy, chic, short bob with choppy fringe. This decadent hue adds movement to the shape by utilizing zig zag partings through the interior, alternating colors and patterns. Block coloring the fringe and underneath adds depth to the overall look. For the cut, short, vertical graduation in the occipital region establishes a contoured silhouette while the horizontal layering pattern builds width throughout the shape. A strong, highly textured fringe is created by alternating the angle of the blade while establishing a square line. The overall look is client-friendly and the perfect shade for spring. But wait, there’s (more…)
  1. 1Step 1 of 27
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  2. 2Step 2 of 27
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    Take a profile parting from the center forehead to the center nape. Place diagonal forward sections from above the occipital to the top of the ear.

  3. 3Step 3 of 27
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    Take a center vertical section and comb to 90 degrees. While elevating the hair at 90 degrees, cut the line decreasing in length towards the hairline.

  4. 4Step 4 of 27
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    Continue working vertical sections with the same distribution and elevation toward the hairline, and overdirect the last section to the previous.

  5. 5Step 5 of 27
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    From below the crown to mid-recession place a horizontal horseshoe parting. Distribute the hair at the natural fall and elevate to 45 degrees, point-cutting the hair below the occipital around to the front hairline, parallel to parting. Repeat on opposite side.

  6. 6Step 6 of 27
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    The line is crossed checked for balance before continuing on.

  7. 7Step 7 of 27
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    The next horseshoe is from the crown to the high recession. Comb the hair at the natural fall, elevate to 45 degrees and point-cut on to the guide.

  8. 8Step 8 of 27
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    Divide the remaining hair with a profile parting. Comb the hair at the natural fall and elevate to 45 degrees from the head shape, and point-cut onto the guide.

  9. 9Step 9 of 27
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    From the center profile, comb two diagonal forward partings to the low recession. Comb the hair at the natural fall and elevate to 1 fingers depth and start from the center out to the corners, point-cutting an irregular broken line.

  10. 10Step 10 of 27
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    Style the shape using a flat brush to control the texture.

  11. 11Step 11 of 27
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    Personalize with deep parallel point-cutting for softness and irregular aggressive point-cutting for separation.

  12. 12Step 12 of 27
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  13. 13Step 13 of 27
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    Color Formulas
    Dark (Root Shade -
    Midnight Sandstone): TIGI® copyright©olour™ gloss 4/88 + 8.5-volume developer
    Medium (Caramel Brown): TIGI® copyright©olour™ mix master 1/2 /00 + 1/4 /1 + 30-volume developer
    Light (Iridescent): TIGI® copyright©olour™ true light white + 8.5-volume developer toned with TIGI® copyright©olour™ gloss 7/2 + 5-volume developer

  14. 14Step 14 of 27
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    Begin technique by applying the root shade; take a profile and radial section creating 4 sections. Apply root shade to the profile, radial and hairline. Then take ¼-inch subsections and apply the root shade to each section until complete.

  15. 15Step 15 of 27
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    Starting in the back, take a curved parting from the top of the ear to the profile. Repeat parting on the opposite side. Then color block the entire section.

  16. 16Step 16 of 27
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    Isolate underneath with a meche.

  17. 17Step 17 of 27
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    Section out the fringe area from the frontal bone to the recession area on both sides.

  18. 18Step 18 of 27
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    Use a single fold meche and isolate the fringe.

  19. 19Step 19 of 27
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    Moving to the sides, start with a diagonal back and take a zig zag parting approximately 1 to 2 inches from the hairline, depending on hair density.

  20. 20Step 20 of 27
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    Take a diagonal back slice off your zig zag parting approximately ¼ to ½-inch in width. Apply the lightest tone to the midlength and hair ends and feather into the root shade. A single fold meche is used.

  21. 21Step 21 of 27
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    Next take a diagonal forward slice off your zig zag parting and section away.

  22. 22Step 22 of 27
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    Then take a diagonal back slice and apply the lightest tone, same as the first section.

  23. 23Step 23 of 27
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    Now the diagonal forward slice sectioned away is dropped down, overlapping the first two slices and the medium color is applied. The color pattern for the first row is the medium shade overlapping the lightest tone.

  24. 24Step 24 of 27
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    Take a second zig zag parting above the first and repeat the same technique, but alternate the color pattern, with the lightest tone overlapping the medium shade.

  25. 25Step 25 of 27
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    Continue with one more zig zag parting above the second, alternating colors and pattern. The remaining hair is dropped out and the root shade color is combed through to blend.

  26. 26Step 26 of 27
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    Repeat technique on the opposite side.

  27. 27Step 27 of 27
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    Who did it
    Cut: Zak Mascolo, Austin Finley, Joseph Marzioli
    Haircolor: Jared Smith, Laura Pease, Samantha Finley
    Styling: Caroline Mascolo
    Makeup: Tommy Gomez
    Photography: Alex Barron-Hough 

     On Paper Keyword: toniguy

    TONI&GUY 2014: Back to Business, Back to Education, Back to Design!

    A personal invitation from Bruno Mascolo!

    For more information, visit www.toniguy.edu/franchising.

    Want to learn how to create these looks? Purchase the DIVERT Collection DVD and technical manual in the BTC Bookstore!

    More How-Tos
    Asymmetrical Bob from TONI&GUY
    Naturally Curly Cut How-To
    Platinum Fringe