You will be making beautiful music once you learn the Jazz cut and color how-to from Addam Moreno, Art Director of the i.Design Team—along with team members Eric Mayes and Darby Shields—from the ISO.Chromatic Collection. Jazz pushes the envelope by taking a classic bobbed shape and incorporating variable asymmetry. The choice of color placement and tone allows you to create a mood much like a jazz singer; unexpected, seductive and bold. Subscribe to behindthechair.com “On Paper” Magazine–4 Issues Only $29.95! Next Issue: COLOR with Beth Minardi! (more…)
- 1Step 1 of 19
Begin by sectioning the top from the natural part back beneath the crown. Curve around to a point below the parietal ridge at the front hairline on the opposite side. - 2Step 2 of 19
Begin sections on the lighter side. Take ½-inch (1,27 cm) diagonal back sections that mimic the natural hairline at the face. Direct hair from the head at 90 degrees and cut to determine desired length. - 3Step 3 of 19
Continue working toward the back using a traveling guide. - 4Step 4 of 19
Work to incorporate the hair at the nape and stop either at the center or a point before the center if you wish to maintain maximum length. - 5Step 5 of 19
Cross-check horizontally for balance. - 6Step 6 of 19
At this point, everything from the opposite side will be overdirected to a now stationary guide to maintain length. - 7Step 7 of 19
Continue to overdirect sections until they no longer reach. - 8Step 8 of 19
Release the top. Sectioning begins at the crown, and is directed back to reveal guides from both sides that were previously cut. Slide cut to blend length. - 9Step 9 of 19
Continue to overdirect sections until they no longer reach. - 10Step 10 of 19
Refine the perimeter shape. - 11Step 11 of 19
Model has natural level 5 dark blonde hair.
Pre lightening Formula:
ActiveLift with 10 vol (3%)Focus Formula 1:
2oz (60ml) 100N (100.0) + 2 inches (5.08cm)
INR + ½-inch (1.27cm) INV with 4oz (120ml)
10 vol (3%)Focus Formula 2:
2oz (60ml) 100N (100,0) + 1oz (30 ml) INCG with
4oz (120ml) 10 vol (3%)Base Formula :
2oz (60ml) 6CR (6,45) + 1oz INCG with 10 vol (3%) - 12Step 12 of 19
Section out disconnected area from shorter lengths. - 13Step 13 of 19
Beginning 1-inch from hairline, stagger two back-to-back slice partings from part to ear and apply Pre lightening Formula. - 14Step 14 of 19
Move toward the crown and overdirect each slice parting to the original guide slice. Apply Pre lightening Formula to the midshaft and ends ONLY, using a balayage technique. - 15Step 15 of 19
All Pre lightened foils will be overdirected to the original guide. Process to desired lightness. - 16Step 16 of 19
Beginning in pre lightened fringe, take five back-to-back slice partings and apply: Focus Formula 2, twice; and Focus Formula 1, three times. - 17Step 17 of 19
Begin taking chevron partings for ALL remaining slices. - 18Step 18 of 19
Continue taking back-to-back chevron partings for a total of eight foils. Alternate Focus Formula 1 and Focus Formula 2. For the last slice parting, apply Base Formula (copper foil). Apply Base Formula to all remaining hair. Process accordingly. - 19Step 19 of 19
Final Look
See the Collection: ISO.Chromatic Collection
