How-To: Geometric Bangs and Chestnut Dimension

Comb the hair down in its natural fall—tilt head slightly forward and cut a minimal, A-line shape in the outline.

Turn the head to the side and connect the outline to the front, keeping the front longer.

Section across the crown to behind the ears, creating a triangular section with a point in front, leaving out the fringe area.

Lift the hair horizontally from the occipital bone up to 90 degrees or more and carve a concave layer into the hair—working shorter in the center to longer toward the edges.

Move to the front and cut a strong, rounded-shaped fringe following the contours of the cheekbones, carving into the hair and blend into the sides.

Working with the head tilted forward, carve through the mid-lengths and ends to create texture and movement.

To create internal texture, twist the hair and carve through for even more texture.

After sectioning the hair into three zones, start foiling at the lowest zone by weaving vertical sections using SUBTIL Powder Lightener with 10-volume Oxydant. Then, continue the foil placement in the second zone, working from the hairline back while using a fine weave around the face.

Moving to the top zone, leave out the fringe and divide down the middle. Continue vertical placement of foils using a fine weave.

Work with a visual freehand technique. Start at the bottom, backcomb the hair and apply Powder Lightener with 40-volume Oxydant to the ends of the hair and cover with foil.

To start the third technique, apply a richer, more neutral base color to the rest of the hair, including the teased portion, ensuring to saturate every strand of exposed hair. Mix: 3 oz. Subtil 6.1 + ¼ oz. Subtil Blue +4½ oz. Subtil Universal Developer. Process for 35 minutes.

After shampooing, apply Tone HD Level 5 + Subtil Universal Developer as a color wash to the first few inches of the base.

Apply Subtil Tone HD color equal parts 6.0 and 7.12 + Subtil Universal Developer as a color wash to the ends of the hair. Process for 20 minutes.