- 1Step 1 of 12

- 2Step 2 of 12

After prepping the hair with a cutting lotion, a horseshoe section is started from the mid recession on each side. The horseshoe should sit just below the crown.
- 3Step 3 of 12

A diagonal back section is taken from the horseshoe down to just in front of the ear. Comb the section T to the part, elevate to 45°, and cut parallel to the diagonal back parting. Continue taking diagonal back sections, utilizing the same methodology and a traveling guide. Behind the ear, the diagonal back sections are taken through to the hairline at the nape.
- 4Step 4 of 12

Continue working in this manner until just past the center of the back.
- 5Step 5 of 12

Repeat the same approach on the opposite side, checking for balance as you go.
- 6Step 6 of 12

The weight line can be softened by elevating the hair in the comb, and breaking into the line with deep parallel point cutting.
- 7Step 7 of 12

A new horseshoe section, 1-inch in depth, is placed horizontally from high recession on both sides.
- 8Step 8 of 12

Starting in the back, comb 1-inch panels to natural fall, elevate to 45° and razor the lengths onto the underneath guide.
- 9Step 9 of 12

Work around the head shape to avoid overdirection. Behind the ear forward, a disconnection is created by continuing the line to the front hairline at this same length, disregarding the shorter guide underneath.
- 10Step 10 of 12

A profile section is taken at the natural part. The section is elevated to 90°, and utilizing a guide from the crown, layered through the front. Pivoting diagonal forward sections are over-directed to the profile guide, creating a soft inversion throughout the top. Repeat on the other side of the natural parting.
- 11Step 11 of 12

Sheers are used to dilute weight throughout the shape by combing vertical sections straight out and gently working the tool against the strand. (Key point: Start no closer than 2/3 the length of the section).
- 12Step 12 of 12

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Classic Undercutting How-To From TONIandGUY
July 20, 2011·1 min read

Zak Mascolo and the TONI&GUY Artistic Team use a classic undercutting technique to transform their model. The end result is full of volume, definition and unstoppable swing. (more…)
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