- 1Step 1 of 40
Create a profile parting from the front hairline to the center nape. Isolate the fringe area with diagonal forward partings form the apex to mid-recession. Create a diagonal back parting from the fringe area to the top of the ear and clip away. Create an s-pattern horseshoe from below the crown top the low-recession and clip away.
- 2Step 2 of 40
Separate the under section with a central vertical parting. Create a diagonal back parting at the transition of the horseshoe, elevate to 90 degrees and point-cut hair short to long, increasing the length towards the central vertical parting. - 3Step 3 of 40
Continue working in this manner, overdirecting sections to the stationary guide at the top, point-cutting and following the guide. Cross check and repeat on the opposite side. - 4Step 4 of 40
Release the S-pattern horseshoe, create a central vertical section, and comb the hair up to 90 degrees, following the round of the head. Point-cut short to long, increasing the length towards the face. - 5Step 5 of 40
Subdivide the guide. Create pivoting diagonal forward sections from below the crown, comb the hair in a T-part fashion, and overdirect to the central stationary guide, creating a short to long inversion. - 6Step 6 of 40
In the fringe section, begin at the center back, comb the hair into natural fall and point-cut square.
- 7Step 7 of 40
For the perimeter, begin at the center back, comb the hair into natural fall, elevate to a one finger depth and point-cut round.
- 8Step 8 of 40
Dry and straighten the hair with a blow-dryer and round brush.
- 9Step 9 of 40
To release the weight, create vertical sections and utilize a deep, C-curve slicing method, working on internal sections from the midlengths out. - 10Step 10 of 40
To detail the fringe, lift vertical section to 90 degrees out from the face and employ deep, parallel point-cutting to remove excess graduation. - 11Step 11 of 40
- 12Step 12 of 40
Color Formulas
Formula A (Smokey Mahogany Brown): TIGI® copyright©olour™ gloss 4/85 + 8.5-volume developer
Formula B (Ash Mahogany Blonde): TIGI® copyright©olour™ true light + white 40-volume developer
Formula C (tone): TIGI® copyright©olour™ gloss 9/21 + 2 inches of TIGI® copyright©olour™ mix master /1 + /55 + 5-volume developerCreate a diagonal back parting from the mid-recession to the occipital on both sides. Secure the sections above the parting and apply Formula A to the remaining hair. Isolate with foil or meche.
- 13Step 13 of 40
Create a curved, diagonal back parting from just below the crown to the occipital, creating an almond shape as shown.
- 14Step 14 of 40
Subdivide the remaining hair outside the almond section into three sections on each side: front, side and back.
- 15Step 15 of 40
Beginning in the back, take 1/8-inch or 1/4-inch subsections (depending on hair density). Create textured/placement weaves and highlight the hair with Formula B. Secure foils with a single fold. - 16Step 16 of 40
Repeat the technique in the side sections. Tip: irregular feathering of the color produces a softer, "lived-in" effect.
- 17Step 17 of 40
In the fringe area, take 1/8-inch subsections and highlight with a weave technique. - 18Step 18 of 40
Divide the almond section in half for control. Begin in the back and work toward the center. Create 1/4-inch slices and apply Formula B to midlengths and ends. Feather the color aggressively at the regrowth area, using the natural color as the root shade to create depth. Isolate every 2 to 3 slices with foil or meche.
- 19Step 19 of 40
Apply Formula B to slices, working from front to center. Continue until all sections are complete. Process, rinse and dry the hair. Tone all strands with Formula C.
- 20Step 20 of 40
Who did it
cut: Zak Mascolo, Austin Finley, Joseph Marzioli
haircolor: Jared Smith, Laura Pease, Samatha Finley
photography: Alex Barron-Hough
styling: Caroline Mascolo
makeup: Tommy Gomez
website: toniguy.com.
On Paper Keyword: toniguyTONI&GUY 2014: Back to Business, Back to Education, Back to Design!
A personal invitation from Bruno Mascolo!
For more information, visit www.toniguy.edu/franchising.
Want to learn how to create these looks? Purchase the DIVERT Collection DVD and technical manual in the BTC Bookstore!
More How-Tos
Short, Rich Caramel Bob & Fringe
Red, Red Wine Color Formula
Asymmetrical Bob from TONI&GUY - 21Step 21 of 40
Create a profile parting from the front hairline to the center nape. Isolate the fringe area with diagonal forward partings form the apex to mid-recession. Create a diagonal back parting from the fringe area to the top of the ear and clip away. Create an s-pattern horseshoe from below the crown top the low-recession and clip away.
- 22Step 22 of 40Separate the under section with a central vertical parting. Create a diagonal back parting at the transition of the horseshoe, elevate to 90 degrees and point-cut hair short to long, increasing the length towards the central vertical parting.
- 23Step 23 of 40Continue working in this manner, overdirecting sections to the stationary guide at the top, point-cutting and following the guide. Cross check and repeat on the opposite side.
- 24Step 24 of 40Release the S-pattern horseshoe, create a central vertical section, and comb the hair up to 90 degrees, following the round of the head. Point-cut short to long, increasing the length towards the face.
- 25Step 25 of 40Subdivide the guide. Create pivoting diagonal forward sections from below the crown, comb the hair in a T-part fashion, and overdirect to the central stationary guide, creating a short to long inversion.
- 26Step 26 of 40
In the fringe section, begin at the center back, comb the hair into natural fall and point-cut square.
- 27Step 27 of 40
For the perimeter, begin at the center back, comb the hair into natural fall, elevate to a one finger depth and point-cut round.
- 28Step 28 of 40
Dry and straighten the hair with a blow-dryer and round brush.
- 29Step 29 of 40To release the weight, create vertical sections and utilize a deep, C-curve slicing method, working on internal sections from the midlengths out.
- 30Step 30 of 40To detail the fringe, lift vertical section to 90 degrees out from the face and employ deep, parallel point-cutting to remove excess graduation.
- 31Step 31 of 40
- 32Step 32 of 40
Color Formulas
Formula A (Smokey Mahogany Brown): TIGI® copyright©olour™ gloss 4/85 + 8.5-volume developer
Formula B (Ash Mahogany Blonde): TIGI® copyright©olour™ true light + white 40-volume developer
Formula C (tone): TIGI® copyright©olour™ gloss 9/21 + 2 inches of TIGI® copyright©olour™ mix master /1 + /55 + 5-volume developerCreate a diagonal back parting from the mid-recession to the occipital on both sides. Secure the sections above the parting and apply Formula A to the remaining hair. Isolate with foil or meche.
- 33Step 33 of 40
Create a curved, diagonal back parting from just below the crown to the occipital, creating an almond shape as shown.
- 34Step 34 of 40
Subdivide the remaining hair outside the almond section into three sections on each side: front, side and back.
- 35Step 35 of 40Beginning in the back, take 1/8-inch or 1/4-inch subsections (depending on hair density). Create textured/placement weaves and highlight the hair with Formula B. Secure foils with a single fold.
- 36Step 36 of 40
Repeat the technique in the side sections. Tip: irregular feathering of the color produces a softer, "lived-in" effect.
- 37Step 37 of 40In the fringe area, take 1/8-inch subsections and highlight with a weave technique.
- 38Step 38 of 40
Divide the almond section in half for control. Begin in the back and work toward the center. Create 1/4-inch slices and apply Formula B to midlengths and ends. Feather the color aggressively at the regrowth area, using the natural color as the root shade to create depth. Isolate every 2 to 3 slices with foil or meche.
- 39Step 39 of 40
Apply Formula B to slices, working from front to center. Continue until all sections are complete. Process, rinse and dry the hair. Tone all strands with Formula C.
- 40Step 40 of 40
Who did it
cut: Zak Mascolo, Austin Finley, Joseph Marzioli
haircolor: Jared Smith, Laura Pease, Samatha Finley
photography: Alex Barron-Hough
styling: Caroline Mascolo
makeup: Tommy Gomez
website: toniguy.com.
On Paper Keyword: toniguyTONI&GUY 2014: Back to Business, Back to Education, Back to Design!
A personal invitation from Bruno Mascolo!
For more information, visit www.toniguy.edu/franchising.
Want to learn how to create these looks? Purchase the DIVERT Collection DVD and technical manual in the BTC Bookstore!
More How-Tos
Short, Rich Caramel Bob & Fringe
Red, Red Wine Color Formula
Asymmetrical Bob from TONI&GUY
Hair Color
Almond Colored Long Layers From TONIandGUY
March 13, 2014·1 min read
Under-color and mahogany blonde highlights enhance this cut, which features almond-shaped, curved, diagonal back sections. It’s from the new TONI&GUY Divert Collection, and it beautifully answers the question, “what can I do to make long brown hair look fresh and new?”On Paper Keyword: toniguy (more…)
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