Copper & Blonde Color Blocking Placement
Natural-toned color blocking is huge this year; luckily, we have the perfect starter formula. Extensions specialist and educator Sarah Moscato-Goodpaster (@sarahmgdoeshair) shares her multi-part formula to achieving a beautiful, bold copper with a pop of blonde.
Must-know tips & client advice before trying this formula
- Who is the ideal color-blocking client?
- "The ideal client would be a Level 5 or lighter," Sarah explains. "Someone who is willing to commit to at-home care required to maintain this look AND someone who will come back every eight weeks for color maintenance."
- Natural starting level:
- Sarah's color-blocking client was a natural starting Level 5 with neutral tones.
- Appointment time and pricing:
- "Including extension reinstallation, this custom coloring took me around six hours," Sarah explains. "For the color and extension service, this would start around $850." Depending on your client's natural color and lightening needs, pricing and time will adjust accordingly!
- Maintenance appointments:
- "My client comes in every eight weeks for color and extension maintenance," she says. "Every other appointment is booked for a longer color service."
- Client at-home care:
- "At-home care includes sectioning off the blonde section from her copper hair using cool water to prevent bleeding," she explains. "I have her follow up with K18 Hair Leave-In Molecular Repair Hair Mask and a copper toning conditioner to maintain vibrancy."
Pro Tip: Sarah says, "This is a high maintenance andexpensive look so it's not fun for everyone BUT it's beautiful and worth it for clients who are willing to commit!"
The Formulas
- Formula A (new growth)
- 15g Kevin Murphy COLOR.ME 7.46 + 10g 6.4 + 5g 7.43 + 10-volume LIQUID.ACTIVATOR
- Formula B (mids and ends)
- 15g COLOR.ME 7.47 + 15g 8.4 + 6g 6.4 + 30-volume CREAM.ACTIVATOR
- Formula C (copper toner)
- Redken Shades EQ™ Bonder Inside 8C + 8CR + Orange Kicker + Shades EQ™ Processing Solution
- Formula D (warm blonde dimensional pieces)
- Shades EQ™ Bonder Inside 10G + 9AA + Shades EQ™ Processing Solution.
- Formula E (bright blonde front strip)
- Shades EQ™ Bonder Inside 10VG + 10NB + Shades EQ™ Processing Solution.
Steps
1. On the client's new growth apply Formula A and on the end (and mids, if needed) apply Formula B for coverage.
2. Next, use Formula C for an all-over copper refresh.
3. Being sure to keep clean sectioning to avoid any copper bleeding, apply Formula D to the color-blocked front section for added warmth and dimension. (Leave out a small section to use in step 4!)
4. For a bright pop within the blonde color block, use Formula E to create a Level 10 strip using the subsection left out from step 3.
5. Once all sections are processed, shampoo using cold water and wash each color-blocked section separately to avoid bleeding and to maintain vibrancy.
