This springtime dream is giving us life! Stylist and #ONESHOT Hair Awards Finalist Jaymz Marsters @jaymz.marsters from Norfolk, England wiped out this client’s washed-out, direct dyed blue, creating a clean slate for this precious confection. Here’s the whole how-to!
Starting Level: The client’s regrowth was a Level 6, with prelightened midlengths that had the residue of old blue direct dye throughout the midlengths and ends. She wanted a shorter style, so to save time and product, Jaymz cut her hair prior to coloring.
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Price: £110, or about $158.
The Formulas
- Prelightening and Cleansing Color Formulas Formula A:
- One part Schwarzkopf Professional IGORA Vario Blond lightener + two parts IGORA Royal 10-volume developer + Olaplex No.1
- Formula B:
- IGORA Vario Blond lightener + warm water + Olaplex No.1
- Formula C:
- One part Affinage Professional INFINITI 9.2 + two parts Affinage Converter
- Schwarzkopf Color Formulas Formula A:
- 15g IGORA Royal 9.5-1 + 15g IGORA Royal 9.5-22 + BLONDME 7-volume developer + Olaplex No.1
- Formula B:
- 20g Pearlescence 9.5-29 + 1g IGORA Royal 0-99 + BLONDME Developer 2% (7-volume) + Olaplex No.1
- Formula C:
- 15g Pearlescence 9.5-89 + BLONDME Developer 2% (7-volume) + Olaplex No.1
- Formula D:
- 15g Pearlescence 9.5-43 + 2g Pearlescence 6.23 + 5g IGORA Royal 9.5-22 + BLONDME Developer 2% (7-volume) + Olaplex No.1
Steps
1. Apply Formula A to regrowth and process for 10 minutes.
2. Apply Formula A to the midlengths, avoiding any blue areas left over from previous color.
3. Immediately apply Formula B onto all the old direct dye areas, emulsifying it into the hair to help remove pigment. Process for 20 minutes or until you reach a Level 9 or 10.
4. Shampoo, then tone with Formula C for five minutes to remove warmth from the hair.
5. Apply MoringapleX Pre-Style Leave-in Spray and blow-dry.
1. Using a traditional sectioning pattern, apply Formula A onto the root area, blending down each section using your fingers and a comb after each section.
2. Starting at the nape of the neck, apply Formulas B, C and D onto the midlengths and ends, alternating the shades as you work toward the top and front of the head. Make sure you finish with Formula D on the crown area to create a lived-in lightness around the top.
3. Process for 20 minutes, then rinse in cool water and apply Olaplex No.2 for 10 minutes.
4. Lightly shampoo, condition, blow-dry and style.


